Saving Seeds is easy to do!
This is a way do it. These are simple and general instructions. Mother Nature is easy to figure out if we keep with the idea that SHE needs to keep it simple too.
Pods of
Yellow Hibiscus
Abelmoschus manihot
Click to expand thumbnail images from the Henry G. Gilbert Nursery and Seed Trade Catalog Collection Images.
USDA National Agricultural Library.
Look carefully at a flower. When the flower fades leave it where it is, do not remove it. Eventually at the base of the flower there will be some swelling. This is where the seeds are forming. Let the fading petals stay where they are and let them fall naturally, do not remove them. Allow the developing seedpod to grow without disturbance. The base of the flower will swell even more and soon you'll notice that the flower stem and the swollen base are turning a papery-brown color. This is an indication that the seeds are near to maturity and are almost fully ripe. In effect the plant is achieving its goal of reproduction for that flower, it has produced viable seeds and no longer needs to expend energy to keep it nourished, so it no longer sends nutrient-rich moisture up the stem to the seedpod. That is why the stem is browning—it is no longer being supplied with nutrients and water and so it is drying and dying back.
This drying action will continue for several days to weeks more and as the swollen pod continues to dry you will see it begin to open. Some pods make star-shaped openings; plants like poppies create a ridge of small circular openings near the top of the pod, this ridge of openings function like a saltshaker—tipping the pod over and shaking it will disperse the seeds. Some flowers, like snapdragon or columbine, make cup-like seedpods—their ripe seeds can easily pour from the pod. All flower pods will open in their own way when the seeds are ripe. These openings are essential so the plant can disperse seeds. When you see that the pods and stems are both brownish in color, AND you notice that the pods are starting to open you can then collect the seedpods knowing that the seeds are fully mature and ripe.
Some plants, like grasses, don't make seed pods but instead develop and mature their ripe seeds directly along the flowering stem. Some grass seeds may be so lightweight that their seeds can waft away on breezes, some grasses have heavier seeds that can drop from the plant when ripe, some seeds grow hook-like extensions that catch onto the coat of a passing animal--they are snagged-off the stem and carried far away before falling to the ground.
After maturity, gather the dried seedpods. Place the pods on open plates or in open bowls and stash them in a safe place where they won't be disturbed so the seeds in the pods can continue to dry naturally for another week or two. Afterwards, remove the seeds from the pods. Ripe seed from grasses can be stripped from the plant with your hand. To assure that the seeds are thoroughly dry spread them on an open plate for a few more days. Occasionally stir the seeds to make sure the bottom layers will get a chance to finish drying too.
Storing dry seed is easy. Some people use paper packets, some people use coin envelopes or small mailing envelopes will do fine too. Some people use small plastic reclosable bags but they make sure the seeds are bone-dry before placing them into the plastic bag and closing it. Seed, which is not completely dry, can grow mold and spoil inside plastic packets. Always label the packets so you know what's inside—you can write the name and information on the packets or make labels for the packets with a graphics program and your home printer. Store the seed packets where they'll be away from heat or direct sunlight. You can use cardboard file boxes to keep seeds in, some people reuse popcorn gift-tins that have a tight fitting lid. These are especially good if the seeds are stored where there might be mice—hungry mice looking for seeds can easily chew into cardboard and some plastics, it’s almost impossible for them to gnaw through the metal wall of a popcorn tin. Some people place their containers of seeds on shelves or in closets, or some use a drawer in their bedroom or dining room, some people like to store their seeds in plastic containers inside their refrigerator. It’s important to remember that when you store seeds in the refrigerator they are not going to benefit from cold-stratification unless they have been first sown into a moist sowing medium. Storing seeds in the refrigerator provides the benefit of cold storage but does not provide the benefit of cold-stratification, it will not enhance the germination of seeds which require cold-stratification for germination.
SeedSave.Org
by Barbara Johnson, Unit Educator, Horticulture
Home Hort Hints, Issue: August-September 2000
Urban Programs Resource Network
University of Illinois Extension
by Bob Gough, Extension Horticulturist
MontGuide Factsheet No. 199905/Horticulture
Montana State University Extension Service
PrimalSeeds.Org
